Twillingate rose to prominence in Newfoundland because of its connection with the sea. Boats have always played a key role in life on this island in fishing, trading and as a means of passenger travel.
Today the schooners of days gone by live on in stories, archives, art and museums. The boats around the coast of Twillingate now tell the story of life that is now very different. Schooners have been replaced by dories, punts, rodneys and trawlers.
The hike to the Natural Arch in Little Harbour, a 4 km drive out of Twillingate on Route 340. Watch for the sign on the left pointing to Little Harbour. The photos on this page were taken by TA Loeffler on a summer hike to the Arch – a walk along an old overgrown road, past a resettled community, scattered root cellar, through fields of wild raspberries and blueberries.
“Hip yer partner Sally Thibeau Hip yer partner Sally Brown Fogo Twillingate Moreton’s Harbour All around the circle…”
Twillingate to Fogo
The Newfoundland “anthem”, I’se the b’y, has immortalized the triangle of Twillingate, Fogo, Morton’s Harbour – All Around The Circle. Much has been happening on Fogo during the past four years, making this a day trip from Twillingate or an overnight stay en-route that is a lovely addition to any itinerary. Through the work of the Shorefast Foundation skills and traditions are being preserved such as boat (punt) building, theatre and art.
Getting There
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Starting in Twillingate, retrace your steps to Route 340 out of town and stay on this route for about 22 kms, turn left onto Route 331 for another 19 kms and then left onto Route 335 (watch for the sign that says “Stoneville/Port Albert”). This route takes you to the ferry terminal at Farewell for the ferry to Change Islands and Fogo.
Newfoundland Pony
Check the ferry schedule in advance. Allow about an hour for the drive to the ferry terminal and another hour and a quarter on the ferry. You’ll want to get to the terminal at least a half hour before departure in summer because the line-up can get long.
Along the route the ferry makes a stop at Change Islands, a scenic island with a few hundred citizens and lots of opportunities for the avid photographer. Change Islands is known for its Newfoundland Pony Refuge – a breeding program aimed at countering the threatening extinction of this native species.
Tilting, Fogo, Joe Batt’s Arm
Don’t underestimate the driving times from the ferry once landed at Stag Harbour. The first community is Seldom and Little Seldom. The main centres on Fogo are the town of Fogo (23 kms from ferry), the community of Tilting (about 32 kms from ferry) and Joe Batt’s Arm (25 kms from ferry; 14 kms from town of Fogo). Tilting is a heritage district that takes pride in its Irish roots – Irish flags, Gaelic names and green clover leaves are dead giveaways! Visit such attractions as the Lane House Museum, the old Post Office, the Dwyer Premises, the Old Irish Cemetery and beautiful Sandy Cove Beach.
A landmark in the town of Fogo is also one of the four corners of the earth, according to the Flat Earth Society: Brimstone Head, accessible after a short, steep hike that delivers astounding vistas.
A helicopter visits.
Our day trip to Fogo took us from the ferry terminal at Stag Harbour to the town of Fogo for an hour’s hike and meander up Brimstone Head. From there we headed to Joe Batt’s Arm for lunch at Nicole’s Café, a gastronomical landmark in the region. In fact, the day we visited, the restaurant was surprised by a large Transport Canada helicopter that first tried to land in front of the cafe and finally perched on the hill behind. Shortly thereafter, a flight crew in flight suits walked in for lunch – apparently breaking for a meal during a training flight in the region…
The afternoon continued with a tour of the island, stopping at a few historic buildings that are being re-purposed as art galleries, artists’ retreats or studios. One such was the St. Simons Anglican Church which now serves as a potter’s studio where artist Julie deRouche was creating the “World’s Largest Cod” which is now displayed as a mural in the Fogo Island Film House. No one was there when we visited, but the doors were open with a sign inviting us in. We browsed around – transported into the world of clay and art.
Barr'd Islands Church
Another local church, Barr’d Islands Church, was being renovated by the Shorefast Foundation, apparently to be used as head quarters for the foundation.
We stopped at a third church, previously a United Church, that currently serves as an art gallery. Unfortunately it was closed at the time, but the view from the front steps alone, made the visit worthwhile.
“Hip yer partner Sally Thibeau Hip yer partner Sally Brown Fogo Twillingate Moreton’s Harbour All around the circle…”
Twillingate to Moreton’s Harbour via Carter’s Cove
The lyrics of the Newfoundland folk tune, I’se the b’y has made a legend of this Twillingate / New World Island touring route. The first part, Twillingate – Moreton’s Harbour is a lovely half-day trip.
View Day Trip:Twillingate Moreton’s Harbour in a larger map
Starting out from Twillingate, a twenty-minute drive towards Lewisporte on Route 340 will bring you to the turn-off to Route 345: Carter’s Cove-Moreton’s Harbour-Tizzards Harbour.
Boats in Carter's Cove
Drive through scenic Carter’s Cove and consider hiking the Brownies Cove Trail before continuing to Moreton’s Harbour. The Moreton’s Harbour Museum is managed by the local community and in summer there is a tea room where a “hot mug” and local baked good may be found. The Moreton’s Harbour W.I. Community Museum contains a wide array of wartime artifacts from both world wars, including wedding dresses and telegraph equipment, plus a tribute to the local fishing legacy.
As a protected harbour Moreton’s Harbour is also the perfect choice for the small crafts harbour that is the hub of the local fishing industry.
Moreton’s Harbour to Tizzard’s Harbour
From Moreton’s Harbour, follow the road signs to Tizzard’s Harbour – make sure you keep your camera close by. Then it is time to turn the car back towards Twillingate.
Lobsters at Hillgrade
Freshly cooked lobster and touton.
On route 340 you’ll pass through Hillgrade. Watch out for the sign that says Sansome and Sons, Lobster Pool… you have found a good spot to pick up lunch or supper.
Pick your live lobster from the pool and have it cooked on site. You have a choice of taking your catch home with you or to dine on the deck with a beautiful ocean view.
Dildo Run Provincial Park on the way home to Twillingate is another option for a picnic of fresh lobster and fresh air.
Boats in Carter’s Cove
Dildo Run Provincial Park
Camp, picnic or hike in Dildo Run Provincial Park
Watch for this sign 15 minutes from leaving Twillingate
Turn here on the way to Moreton’s Harbour from Twillingate
Carter’s Cove
Brownies Cove Hiking Trail in Carter’s Cove
Fishing boats waiting in Carter’s Cove
Watch out for this road sign when traveling to Moreton’s Harbour
Moreton’s Harbour Museum
Moreton’s Harbour Museum
Fishing Boats in Moreton’s Harbour
Moreton’s Harbour Newfoundland
A view of Tizzard’s Harbour across the bay
Small craft harbour in Moreton’s Harbour
Moreton’s Harbour
Boats in Moreton’s Harbour
Tizzard’s Harbour across the Bay
Welcome to Tizzard’s Harbour
Scenic surprise in Tizzard’s Harbour
Scenic Tizzard’s Harbour
Summer serenity in Tizzard’s Harbour
Lobster pool, oceanfront dining, fresh seafood.
Lobster pool in Hillgrade
Lobster boats at Sansome and Sons in Hillgrade
Lobster still life.
Oceanfront dining at its best – Sansomes in Hillgrade
Pick your lobster and ask for it to be cooked in site.
If you are planning a trip to Twillingate this summer, reserve your accommodation with us early to ensure you get the time you are looking for. Every summer Twillingate bustled with visitors looking for fresh air, unspoilt coastline and a safe vacation.
Amber Retreat is set in a quiet cove close to the ocean. There is a partial ocean view from the top story - but the charm of this property is the quiet, private retreat it offers. This modified traditional saltbox house has the modern comforts for one or two couples, a small family or four friends.
Above the TIckle has a wonderful rose garden in summer. Enjoy and watch the ocean from here.
Above the Tickle, our recent addition to Twillingate’s vacation homes, has similar comforts. Here you can enjoy an ocean view although you are not right on the ocean.
Theatre, galleries, restaurants and shops are within short walking distance.
If you are looking for accommodation for up to 6 people (3 bedrooms, 1 1/2 bathroom), then Above the Tickle is your choice.
Does Twillingate have more abundant wild flowers than anywhere else in the world…. or do I just have more time there to take time and smell the flowers?
Here are some of the pictures we took last year on hikes to the Natural Arch in Little Harbour, to French Beach and at Back Harbour just across from the beach.
Bee on clover.
Daisies,irises, clover, buttercups, lupins and forget-me-nots.
Twillingate is a photographer’s paradise. Our friend TA Loeffler visited us in Twillingate last summer. She is known as an outdoor adventurer, mountaineer and professor in recreational technology. Lesser known is the fact that she is a very good amateur photographer and videographer. She took these photos in what she calls her “Study in Blue and White”:
Much is written about icebergs and the icebergs of Twillingate but nothing can prepare you for the first time you encounter one of these enormous bergs up close and personal. 2009 had a bumper crop of icebergs while 2010 delivered only a few. Here are a few photographs we took on a boat tour at dusk in 2009.
Iceberg at Dusk in Twillingate
The candy stripes in this iceberg is from melted iceberg water that freezes in cracks in the iceberg.
A lone seal looks on from its iceberg perch as a tour boat floats by at dusk.
Reservations are coming in from visitors planning their 2011 summer vacation. With Christmas almost a month behind us (how did that happen?) iceberg season will be upon us soon enough!
Fish Fun and Folk Festival
The annual Fish Fun and Folk Festival is traditionally in the third week of July every year. It is a time when Twillingaters from everywhere come home to visit and where visitors from all over the world come to Twillingate to enjoy great summer weather and a week of festivities and events that ends traditionally in a spectacular fireworks display. This year the festival dates are 25 to 31 July 2011.
Wine Tour
Auk Island Winery and gift shop is open year round. Wine tours provide a demonstration of how the Auk Island wines are made with a blend of local berries and iceberg water. The gift shop is a lovely spot to find a local gift or simply browse around.
Live Performances
We are waiting to hear about performances of local group the Split Peas, gospel singers Irene Bridger and Karren Churchill, the All Around the Circle dinner theatre in Crow Head and drama production in Cameron Hall this summer. Check back for more information.
Kayaks outside Above The Tickle
Kayaking
Last summer guests of ours arrived with their kayaks and launched at the Tickle Bridge and kayaked around to Durrell. They had the most awesome time.
A recent honeymoon couple drove all the way from Maryland to Amber Retreat for a week’s vacation with their kayak and judged by their photos, they had an exhilarating time exploring the coastline around Twillingate. If you’d like to try kayaking and want to go out with a group or rent a kayak, you may want to contact Lindy Rideout of Seaknife Kayaks a call. It is way safer than it looks!
